![]() This thread isn't that old, and I just came across it as I have started up scanning old slides of mine. It can take some time to learn how to get the best of your device but this will avoid headaches in the future. Is not the same work with BW or color images. I did some actions to set a workflow and get the best of my scans. And use post process to avoid noise and to do sharpen in Photoshop. Appears a simple thing but it can be a world of difference. Just clean well the surfaces of the scan and negative to avoid spots like the old days when we used an enlarger. I recommend not use any automatic function or noise or sharpen utilities. Otherwise I find that you can get the same quality with the software that arrived with your scanner cause the limit is in the hardware. My advice is not waste money except the device you are using is not more usable with new OS. I just started to scan a lot this days and I experimented in the past with both softwares. Is there anything else in my workflow I should tweak? Anyway once I edit the TIFF in Photoshop I convert the profile to sRGB if they originally were Epson Grayscale and then upload them for printing. or something like that when you just double click on a file. I assume this is because it doesn't read the imbedded color profile. One thing I have noticed is the colors/intensities will not look right in Windows Photo Viewer unless you run a full screen slide show. If everything is calibrated right there is no perceptible difference between the two. If my monitor is off I can see color/intensity shifts when turning Monitor RGB proof colors on and off. I turn on proof colors and choose Monitor RGB and the image looks the same. When I open the final output file in Photoshop it looks correct. Reading John Shriver's post is what prompted me to chime in and state my experience. I never posted about it because I thought there may be something wrong with my workflow. I wonder if you are not blaming the program for problems that have their origins elsewhere. It seems so alluring until you get that series of color pictures you can't scan in with the right colors. Scanning really is the Achilles heel of film photography. Anyway I eventually figured out setting up a darkroom wasn't too hard or expensive and if something doesn't scan to my satisfaction I just go old school and break out the enlarger. But really until you open the final product on a calibrated monitor there is no way of telling definitively whether what you have is good or not. If the results are not to my liking I may fiddle with the exposure control. I may be a charlatan but most of the time I just leave most of the stuff on automatic when I scan. Vuescan has all these controls but how are you supposed to tweak them when the preview looks nothing like the final scan!ī&W negatives are okay. I have no idea why this isn't stated more often. I do really appreciate that he supports so many different scanners, and I'm happy with it for B&W and normal flatbed reflective scanning. Something is wrong in color management, and the author doesn't appear inclined to admit so and fix it. Mostly I've been frustrated getting good results in color negative, with the preview window looking NOTHING like the actual scan in terms of color balance. I've bought VueScan, tried to like it, but haven't really taken to it. I probably will license SilverFast for my Coolscan at some point, so that I can use Q60 calibration targets (have both the 35mm Kodakchrome and Ektachrome ones). Only Ektar 100 challenges it, for that SilverFast has been the best, but only since they added the NegaFix profile. It generally does a very fine job at orange mask removal and color balance on C-41 films. I still use Nikon Scan for my Coolscan V, under Windows XP on Parallels on my Mac Mini. The price is indeed high, but the support has been excellent. They aren't good at automatic file naming. ![]() (That may not be an issue anymore - I don't anticipate any more generations of color film.) The NegaFix profiles are also variable in quality. However, they are slow to add NegaFix profiles for new films. I like the new SilverFast 8 user interface. Used it on my Epson 2450, and use it with my Epson V750. I've been a SilverFast customer for a long time, and have been happy with it. Try lots of different versions, maybe some run faster with your scanner than others.
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